It’s helpful to use stitch markers to show where your needles had been, to make sure you continue the same pattern. When your dpns get full, transfer your stitches to your circular needle, being careful to not drop any stitches. Feel free to slightly adjust the amount of rounds you do on each dpn, it helps to make the hat shape more random. Repeat from * to * until the hat is the circumference you would like for it to be. Round 40: M1R on the second dpn, SSK on the third dpn Round 26: M1R on the second dpn, SSK on the third dpn. Rounds 10 – 15 : Repeat rounds 8 and 9 (all even rounds worked as round 8, all odd rounds worked as round 9) Round 9: SSK on the first dpn, M1R on the second dpn. I highly recommend putting a stitch marker on your first dpn, otherwise it’s easy to forget which one is which. Continue this until you have six stitches (3 rounds), then divide evenly onto three dpns. Once it’s the length you want it, M1R between the second to last and last stitch on the first dpn (all of my increases occur between the second to last and last stitch on a dpn, and all of my decreases occur at the end of a dpn, so that instruction will be implied from now on). Stitches/techniques you’ll need for this pattern other than knit, purl, stockinette and basic knit bindoff:Ĭast on with three stitches, working i-cord for several inches (for my felted hat, I did 10 rows for a non-felted hat you’ll probably want about half of that). 3 skeins Lion Brand Wool in Ranch Red, medium weight (approximately the same size as worsted weight).Divide all of that by the length of the test swatch after felting, and that will give you how big around your hat should be before felting. Multiply the length of test swatch before felting by the diameter you want the hat to be after felting. If you’re felting your hat, to figure out how big around it should be, plug in your numbers to this: The circumference of the head I was making it for was 26″, and I was more concerned with the hat shrinking in the diameter and being to small than with it shrinking in height (but the test swatch was helpful because I then knew to make it about twice as tall as I wanted it to actually be). My test swatch was 5″ x 5″, and felted it came out to 2″ x 4″. It’s a little risky to do this with a hat, as it may felt differently across its surface, but my friend wanted a felted wizard hat, and he bought the yarn, so who am I to complain? You’ll need to measure it before and after to see how it proportionally decreases. Felt a test swatch of your yarn (skip if you don’t want to felt your hat): You just want the pattern □ I’ll be offering up directions for what I did, but since this hat is both felted and for a person with a huge noggin (literally, not metaphorically), you can stop the body of the hat and move on to the brim whenever it’s the circumference you want. Do you really want me to explain all the reasons why this pattern works, or do you just want the pattern? This is the sort of pattern that, once you figure out how it works, you can pretty well do it however you want. Now, my non-knitting friends (read: all of you =P), don’t feel like you have to read the instructions in this, I’m just putting this out there so the next person who wants to make a hat like this doesn’t have to go through all the frustration I have to figure out how the hell to do this. Did you know that it’s next to impossible to find a wizard hat pattern on the internet? (Or, at least one that’s offered for free – come on, Internet! This is where you decide to start charging for crap?!) Well, okay, there are wizard hat patterns, but not very cool looking ones: (Also note that that hat is sewn, not knit, which the person I was making this for specifically requested.) I was looking for something more worn looking, more Gandalf-y, like this wasn’t some pasty wizard sitting up in a tower eating grapes and arguing about magical theory but instead actually got out and was taking care of things.
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